Overview

Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are a ground-dwelling, crepuscular/nocturnal gecko species native to parts of Asia and the Middle East, and are one of the most commonly kept pet lizards, partly due to their manageable size and generally calm temperament once settled.

Enclosure size

A commonly cited minimum for a single adult is around 90 x 45cm of floor space, with height being less critical for this ground-dwelling species than floor area – though as with any enclosure, larger is generally better. See our Reptile Tank-Size Calculator.

Heating and temperature gradient

Leopard geckos need a temperature gradient, typically achieved with a thermostat-controlled under-tank heat mat rather than an overhead basking lamp, since they do not bask in the same way as diurnal species like bearded dragons.

  • Warm side (over the heat mat): commonly cited around 29-32°C
  • Cool side: room temperature, roughly 22-25°C
  • A thermostat is strongly recommended to prevent overheating – an unregulated heat source is a real fire and burn risk.

Lighting and UVB

Leopard geckos have historically been kept without UVB lighting, since they are largely crepuscular/nocturnal. This is a genuinely evolving area of reptile husbandry – a growing number of keepers and some exotics vets now recommend providing a low level of UVB even for this species, based on emerging evidence about vitamin D3 synthesis and overall health, rather than relying on dietary D3 supplementation alone. This is worth discussing directly with an exotics-experienced vet or very experienced keeper, since practice in this area is still developing and this project has no veterinary expertise to make a firm recommendation either way.

Substrate

Loose sand substrates for young/juvenile leopard geckos are a debated topic in keeper communities, with impaction risk cited as a concern by many sources. Many keepers use paper towel, reptile carpet, or tile for young geckos, moving to other substrate options only once the gecko is established, if at all – research current thinking on this and confirm with an experienced keeper or exotics vet rather than relying on any single source.

Diet

Leopard geckos are insectivores – appropriately sized, gut-loaded, calcium-and-D3-dusted feeder insects (such as crickets, mealworms or dubia roaches) are the standard diet, not vegetables. Fresh water should always be available.

This is general information, not veterinary advice. Every bird is an individual, and needs can vary by exact species, age and health. Always confirm specifics with an avian-experienced vet before making husbandry decisions – see our Avian Vets directory.

Frequently asked questions

Do leopard geckos need UVB lighting?

This is a genuinely evolving area of reptile husbandry – historically many were kept without it, but a growing number of keepers and some exotics vets now recommend low-level UVB. Confirm current best practice with an exotics vet or very experienced keeper.

What size enclosure does a leopard gecko need?

A commonly cited minimum for one adult is around 90 x 45cm of floor space – larger is generally better.

What do leopard geckos eat?

Appropriately sized, gut-loaded, calcium-and-D3-dusted feeder insects – they are insectivores, not vegetable-eaters.

Is sand substrate safe for leopard geckos?

This is a debated topic, particularly for young geckos, with impaction risk cited as a concern by many keeper sources. Many keepers use paper towel, reptile carpet or tile instead, especially early on.

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